Sri Lanka: Negombo Beach and a Catamaran Trip

Discovering Sri Lanka – Negombo beach was the last stop on our extraordinary tour of Sri Lanka, a magical place where we set sail on the Indian Ocean in one of the traditional catamarans!

Sri Lanka sunset over the Indian Ocean from Negombo beach.

We continued our travels through Sri Lanka to Negombo on the west coast. This was the last part of our private guided tour. I’d booked a remarkable offer, including international flights on Qatar Airways, accommodation with breakfasts and evening meals, a large new private air-conditioned chauffeur-driven car and expert guide.

I had negotiated extra nights at the beachfront hotel at little extra cost (one of the reasons we stayed in Negombo instead of travelling further south to Galle). Negombo is 35 kilometres north from Colombo, only 30 minutes away from the airport along the expressway. This meant we could just relax for three days before catching the long flight home and work!

My husband walking on the sands of Negombo beach by the Indian Ocean.

Our guide pointed out the main sights… Negombo lagoon with the typical fishing boats and main fish market, the old fort, Roman Catholic churches, Buddhist and Hindu temples, and Islamic mosques.

The original fishing village has a remarkable history and over the centuries it became an important trading post – the Moors introduced the cinnamon trade in the VII century, the Portuguese came along in the XV century, followed by the Dutch (who built the canals and several buildings which you can still see today), and finally the British.

This colourful legacy has brought a multi-cultural, multi-religious way of life to the community.

Palms trees on the sands of Negombo beach.

Our hotel was gloriously located by a vast stretch of golden sands shaded by palm trees, the room overlooking the Indian Ocean! We walked along the beach for a while watching the beautiful sunset.

Sri Lankan kiddies sitting on the sands of Negombo beach.

Next morning it was a novelty to chill out by the pool for a while after a week of travelling and sightseeing! I soon made friends with Muriel, who sold pretty beach skirts to tourists on the beach, along with other ladies accompanied by their small children.

My husband on the main street of Negombo town.

Juan and I walked into Negombo along the road bordering the main strip of seafront hotels, which is lined with gift shops and a selection of restaurants.

The town centre was a chaotic combination of modest shops and pavement stalls with an emphasis on Christmas…we were there in December and the ‘stores’ were filled with gaudy decorations and glittery cards.

Xmas decorations in a shanty street store in Negombo.

Instead of hailing one of the typical 3-wheeler tuk tuks for the ride back we decided to walk this time, taking the path beside the canal past some insalubrious dwellings and then through a more prosperous residential area. Like everywhere we went in Sri Lanka the local people were lovely, polite and helpful.

The Sri Lankan climate is tropical on the west coast and at this time of year there were frequent brief showers, which was great in the heat!

We had our favourite lunch in a tropical style café…roasted fresh cashew nuts with curry leaves and a fresh lime juice and soda for me, and a Lion beer for Juan. The waiters recognised us and changed the music to full blast Xmas carols and corny tunes every time we entered assuming we’d love it!

Tuk tuk in a road in Negombo.

We strolled along the beach and came across a tiny fishing ‘village’ with shanty thatched dwellings.  The men were out fishing in wooden canoes and catamarans with colourful sails, out on the horizon. In the morning we’d arranged to go out on a catamaran with some local fishermen…a way for them to get an extra income.

By the shore the waves were quite fierce but just a little out to sea, the Indian Ocean was smooth and calm. They were a friendly crew and it was interesting to hear their adventurous tales.  I swam in the warm sea for a while until they started ribbing me by calling out ‘shark’.

Me and my husband with Sri Lankan crew of a catamaran on Negombo beach.

That evening was the annual staff Christmas party at the hotel…everyone came along with their families, and Santa was there to surprise their kiddies. We left them partying and went out for an evening meal.

Negombo may not be renowned, or so I’ve read, for its cuisine but we enjoyed some really nice meals, tasty curries and spicy seafood soups, and even decent wine! With the right ingredients and recipes, Sri Lankan food is simple to make at home.

Father Christmas outside our hotel in Negombo.

We hadn’t seen the main fish market so on the last morning we got up at dawn to see the fishing boats return to the little ‘village’ near the hotel instead.

It was intriguing to watch – the boats were hauled onto the beach by the fishermen with the help of one small ancient rusty winch and plastic bottles filled with seawater, used as rollers. The fresh seafood was sold by the woman folk at small stalls.

Me, in front of the little fishing boats on sandy Negombo beach.

We said our goodbyes to Muriel and the children, and then to the catamaran guys. We gave them coloured pens and sweets for their kiddies as goodbye pressies. The tour company sent a taxi to take us to the airport…where we headed for our next destination, a quick stopover at Qatar for some dune bashing adventures!


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