Enjoy a day Sri Lanka’s beautiful city of Kandy. Spend a morning wandering around the gorgeous Peradeniya Botanical Gardens, have lunch in the fascinating town centre, and then stroll around the lake to see the legendary Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic.
Continuing our adventures around Sri Lanka.
Our guide joined us for breakfast at hotel Suisse in Kandy, and excitedly pointed out that the guy at the next table was a Government Minister – it was, I realized, an establishment frequented by the Sri Lankan elite.
Our chauffeur driven, air-conditioned, exclusive vehicle was waiting to take us to the Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya. Yes, our budget-priced package holiday to Sri Lanka had luxurious style!
On the way, we visited a workshop to see the famous handmade Kandyan jewellery, traditional craftsmanship that has been passed down the generations. The headdresses and necklace sets for extravagant weddings are legend – beautiful gemstones, such as emeralds and rubies, are set in gold and silver.
After a short film on gem mining in Sri Lanka, we saw the jewellers select the precious stones and how they were set into rings – it was interesting and like everywhere we went in the country, there was absolutely no pressure to buy.
The Royal Botanical Gardens just outside Kandy at Peradeniya are something else…extensive gardens with 4000 species of trees and plants, manicured green lawns, an avenue of palms, towering bamboos beside the river, ornamental lakes, flowerbeds, rose gardens, an exotic orchid house and a herbarium. It’s a living testimony to Sri Lanka’s history.
Living in Europe, we hadn’t seen many of these tropical plants before – particularly the ‘medicinal’ coca or opium!
I love discovering places on my own, wandering around in my own good time, but sometimes a guide’s knowledge is invaluable. Many of the plants in Peradeniya were shipped over from Kew Gardens when the Kandy Botanical Gardens were created in 1843. Other distinctive trees were gifts from visiting British Royals over the decades.
The cannonball tree on the lawns by the pavillion was impressive, planted in 1901 it was a present from King George V and Queen Mary.
Sri Lankan families were enjoying a peaceful morning in the beautiful surroundings (subsidised entrance for locals and children), and young courting couples strolled romantically hand-in-hand, just like a film scene from last century.
The Mahaweli River flows along one side of the parkland, the poor dwellings on the other bank a stark contrast to the 147 acres of lovingly tended Botanical gardens.
We had a ‘free’ afternoon from being guided around, so Juan and I headed for Kandy main street and a modern shopping centre to withdraw some cash from one of the banks (an officious process) and an ice-cream for lunch (a nice change from curry).
The centre of Kandy is busy…there’s a municipal market with loads of stalls just off the main street, a modern shopping mall, and a supermarket selling most everything (we needed a camera card) but not beer – we were told that booze was only dispatched at closing time, from a hatch outside at the back, to the alcoholic tramps!
The narrow lane behind the main street was interesting – small inexpensive shops where Sri Lankan visitors go. There was a fascinating little store selling the most beautiful fabrics I have ever seen.
Kandy is a favourite place for weddings and affluent families come here for the ceremony and elaborate trappings.
There is a remarkable choice of vividly coloured silk or cotton fabrics, lengths of the most marvellous materials for making sarongs. Juan convinced me that I wouldn’t be wearing a sarong anytime soon back in Spain, and that, no, they wouldn’t look that great as curtains…what a pity!
There was a sudden downpour as often happens in the tropical climate, so we took shelter on the balcony of a discreet first floor café terrace and watched the world go by on the main street below… pedestrians with bright umbrellas, passing tuk tuks and taxis.
I ordered cashews and was served a large plateful of fresh nuts sautéed with curry leaves, which were wonderful accompanied by a fresh lime soda.
We walked to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic for a second leisurely visit. The main temple is part of a larger complex of palaces (many of which now house museums), gardens and smaller shrines.
I had to remind myself to take my shoes off every time I entered a shrine, and make sure I didn’t take a photo with anyone standing in front of a Buddha statue.
A magnificent complex of royal palaces is located around the temple by the lake- this includes the King’s Palace, a long white building with an inner courtyard which is currently the archaeological museum.
The Royal Audience Hall is another outstanding, partly wooden construction, with a Kandyan roof resting on elaborate pillars. Kandy National Museum is housed in the ‘lower palace’ which was originally used as a harem!
The Queen’s Bathing Pavilion is down by the lake and is now the local police headquarters.
Just outside the temple compound St. Paul’s VIII century Anglican Church looks very Victorian.
The Reverend came out and welcomed us into the service. Like most everyone we met on our journey through Sri Lanka he was so polite and friendly. We made our excuses and strolled along the shady footpath around Lake Kandy towards our hotel.
Related Posts on Sri Lanka
Follow our travels through Sri Lanka to discover the wonders of this beautiful country.
- Sri Lanka the Emerald Isle – Colombo City Tour
- Visiting Dambulla, Sigiriya & Polonnaruwa
- Spice Gardens & Batik in Matale / Sacred Temple Kandy
- Kandy: Peradeniya Botanical Gardens / Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic
- Kandy: Giragama tea plantation / Embekke, Lankathilake & Gadaladeniya temples
- Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage
- Negombo Beach and Catamarans
Discover the World with
the blog with a focus on independent travel
