Sri Lanka Spice Gardens and Temple Of The Sacred Tooth

Discovering Sri Lanka – Spice Gardens, Batikwork, Kandyan Dancers and Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic.

Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy.
Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy.

This was possibly the most ‘touristy’ day we spent in Sri Lanka but we loved it just the same… Our next destination was Kandy, a beautiful town surrounded by hills in the central plains and a place of pilgrimage.

Sri Lanka: Spice Garden and Sacred Temple

Spice Gardens in Matale

Sri Lanka spice garden in Matale.
Sri Lanka spice garden in Matale.

On the journey from Sigiriya to Kandy we were taken to see one of the spice gardens in Matale, that Sri Lanka is so famous for.

Sri Lanka spice garden in Matale.
Sri Lanka spice garden in Matale.

I loved seeing the aromatic plants and trees, smelling the spices and essential oils, trying the lotions and most of all learning about everything! I bought a selection of spices – cinnamon, cardamom, curry leaves, coriander, cumin and lemon grass – and a jar of pure aloe gel, ginger skin cream and sandalwood oil.

Batik Workshop

Sri Lanka women in the batik workshop in Matale.
Sri Lanka women in the batik workshop in Matale.
Sri Lanka women in the batik workshop in Matale.
Batik fabrics.

Next stop was a rural workshop where batik fabric is made by hand in the traditional way.

The whole Batikwork process was interesting – we watched as an artist drew the design on pure cotton; hot wax is then applied over the pattern with a special tool and stiff brush, the material is then submerged in a coloured dye, and subsequently left to dry.

Boiling water is used to remove the wax, revealing areas of undyed material; the process is then repeated using different dyes, to create uniquely coloured designs.

Batiks are used a tablecloths, wall hangings, multi-coloured beach shirts and skirts! Juan and I were draped in the different fabrics, tied as sarongs around our bodies, but resisted the temptation to buy!

Kandy

The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy is the highlight of a trip to Sri Lanka! We stayed in the lovely Hotel Suisse, a traditional colonial hotel which was ornately carved with wooden decoration and located in an idyllic location beside Kandy Lake.

View over Kandy Lake.
View over Kandy Lake.

The magnificent temple complex was almost opposite on the other bank. Our room faced this fabulous view, but you could hardly open the French windows because the monkeys in the trees outside are likely to come in and nick your belongings.

Kandyan Dancers

Sri Lanka Kandyan Dancers on stage.
Sri Lanka Kandyan Dancers on stage.

At dusk, we went to see the renowned Kandyan Dancers on stage at the Arts Association Hall. It is a wonderful show, the elaborate costumes, headdresses and masks, and native dancing to the incessant beat of drums is enthralling. This was followed by a mesmerising performance of fire dancing on the terrace outside, and firewalkers treading burning coals.

Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic

Kandy's Temple of the Sacred Tooth at dusk.
Temple of the Sacred Tooth at dusk.

I specifically wanted to see the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic after dark, so I persuaded our guide to take us there that evening. The ambience of flickering coconut oil lamps at night makes it a completely different experience.

Kandy Sacred Tooth Temple flower offerings.
Flower offerings at Kandy’s Sacred Tooth Temple.

Outside, devotees were buying a traditional posy of flowers to offer at the evening ‘puja’. Security measures around the temple are very strict – to guard the sacred relic of Buddha’s tooth, and the priceless gold and bejewelled treasures that Buddhists and tourists from all over the world come to see, and to deter terrorism.

At the entrance, the guards checked that I was adequately dressed – barefoot, but with legs, arms and shoulders properly covered.

Sri Lanka`s Temple of the Sacred Tooth drummer hall.
Sri Lanka`s Temple of the Sacred Tooth drummer hall.

Inside the main hall of the 2-storey shrine the Hewisi drummers were performing an evening ceremony.

Buddha statues inside the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic.
Buddha statues inside the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic.

The Sacred Temple has an adjoining wing, the Sri Dalada Museum where there are religious images, jewellery and coffers on display, along with historical items, silverware, lamps, paintings and garments.

Holy casket inside Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy.
Holy casket inside Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy.

After seeing a number of different ornate shrines filled with Buddha statues, we filed upstairs to get a glimpse of the Sacred Tooth. The relic is encased in seven gold stupas and is kept in the ‘handun kunama’, a chamber in the heart of the temple under the golden canopy, and is ceremoniously brought out for worship three times a day.

Sri Lankans outside the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy.
The grounds outside the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy.

Only privileged worshippers, mainly orange robed monks or the wealthy bearing gifts, are allowed into the cordoned off inner sanctuary, can get close enough to see the ceremony.

The annual Kandy festivities at the end of July/beginning of August are renowned throughout Asia. The grand Esala Perahera features religious ceremonies and processions where the casket with the Sacred Tooth is carried through the streets on the Maligawa Raja tusker elephant… the colourful parades with magnificently adorned elephants and cultural dances, continue for several days and nights.


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