The magic of New Year’s Eve Chiang Mai style in north Thailand.
The 31st of December and a memorable New Year’s Eve in Thailand! It seemed a good idea to get together with a fellow travel blogger over in Chiang Mai for the winter, Bruce Bean from the USA , a Facebook friend for years. We confirmed the time and place to meet up for a meal and then to watch fire lanterns being let off over the moat at midnight.
Our second day on wheels and Juan looked like he’d been driving on the Thai roads forever. We had the route fathomed out from our rural accommodation in Mae Faek and headed for old Chiang Mai in the late afternoon. He parked up in a backstreet the other side of the River Ping and we walked over the bridge towards the rendezvous point over the moat by Tha Phae Gate within the walled city.
Photo by Bruce W. Bean
I saw fire lanterns floating up from a small temple (I think it must be Wat Buppharam by looking at the street plan afterwards but with 300 temples in Chiang Mai vicinity it’s challenging to pinpoint the name). I wanted to send up a prayer lantern and this was the ideal time and place, a peaceful temple where monks were helping people light the white paper lanterns and launch them up to fly. It isn’t as easy as it looks. I bought a large lantern for a few baht and scribbled my wish in marker pen.
An orange robed monk held the lantern with me while the oil candle underneath heated up the air inside, a bit like a hot air balloon. We let go watching as it gently soared upwards over a nearby building, up and away until it disappeared high in the sky.
It’s fascinating to see how the monks watch each lantern until it’s out of sight as they believe these wishes go directly to their Lord Buddha.
I turned round and found Juan sitting down on a bench deep in conversation with a monk…Juan in Spanglish and the Monk in pidgin English they were happily chatting away. He shook Juan’s hand and wished me goodbye, explaining that they are not allowed to touch women at all, not even a handshake.
Chiang Mai restaurant with party decor
We were only 10 minutes late Bruce I promise but Tha Phae Gate was heaving with people, the crowds out for New Year’s Eve. I found the café where I thought we were meeting, waited around hoping to spot my tall friend with the baseball cap who should certainly stand out; phone messages weren’t getting through either so we never did find each other.
Juan and I strolled through the old town trying to find somewhere quieter to eat but got sidetracked as people dressed in all white walked by…as usual curiosity got the better of us and we followed them down an alley.
That’s how we came upon the white thread full moon festival at Wat Chedi Luang, one of the most extraordinary experiences I have ever seen. Hundreds of people were seated on rows of chairs at the foot of the huge brick chedi in the grounds of the ancient temple. A preacher was standing in front of the chanting congregation, on a stairway that leads up to the Buddha image glowing in a niche.
The audience were divided into sections so that shaven headed monks or the people dressed in white could sit together in separate groups. An overhead grid of fine white string was connected to each person, the hanging ‘sai sin’ thread looped over each head looking like a halo.
The scene was truly atmospheric. It’s essentially a blessing ceremony where the significance of the white circle connecting everyone together and in turn to the image of Buddha brings protection and good luck.
Photo by Bruce W. Bean
Freshly prepared snacks were being given out from stalls set out beside the main prayer hall and we were invited to try some… a bowl of hot porridge, warm sweetish Chinese-style bread and soya bean milk, iced slush drinks and the fine crispy pancakes folded into triangular cones that are so popular in Thailand -I had to guess which flavours to choose from the large selection of sauces. It was actually really nice, the most unusual New Year’s Eve spread I have ever eaten!
Coming up to midnight and the skies were ablaze with fire lanterns.
By Tha Phae Gate tourists were merrily lighting lanterns without a clue how to do so, some fell into the moat water, others burnt on trees but the majority no doubt found their way to heaven.
It was an awesome sight, millions of lights flickering in the sky.
The 1st of January was just as amazing. We ventured into Chiang Mai mainly to see the curious Wat Chedi Luang by daylight.
The 14th century temple was damaged by an earthquake hundreds of years ago, the towering chedi stupa has been restored although the top part has been left to resemble a ruin. The huge square base is surrounded by a dry moat, each side has a flight of serpent flagged naga stairs going up to large arched niches and there are a number of holy statues across the monument including five huge stucco elephants.
I walked around looking inside the wooden pavilions at the back of the patio and discovered a large reclining Buddha.
The City Pillar Shrine is another iconic attraction. Sunlight glinting off the façade of the main prayer hall caught my attention so I slipped my sandals off and had a quick look at the beautiful interior.
Next door to Chedi Luang there’s a smaller ancient temple, one of the oldest around, we found it by pure chance.
The prayer hall at the entrance is entirely made of dark teak wood, a path leads down the garden to a stupa at the rear but what makes Wat Phan Tao so special is the care that the monks take over the ambiance in the gardens.
A long pool with walkways and a cascade runs along the left-hand side and behind is a platform of sand backed by tall bamboo.
At dusk orange robed monks slip silently through the bamboo screen, just like it was a theatre backstage, and quietly light dozens of tea lights on the ‘beach’. A myriad of silk lanterns, flowers and exquisite adornments heighten the effect to create a fairy-tale wonderland. It’s magical!
A busy night market was being held along the street outside, so I browsed the craftworks and paintings, hippie style clothes and fashion jewellery…I can’t add more weight to my travel bag, just a new bracelet from each country I visit.
Our stay in Chiang Mai was almost over, we explored more of the countryside around San Sai over the next couple of days and then Tuk drove us to the Arcade Bus Terminal for the last leg of our Thailand adventure, northwards to Chiang Rai in the famous Golden Triangle.
New Year’s Eve Lanterns in Chiang Mai – Video by traveller blogger and photographer Bruce W. Bean: Travel and Photo Today
