Sunset Over Seville Skyline

Seville, Andalucia, Spain.

First impressions. 
The panoramic view from our bedroom terrace at Hotel Alcázar was stunning – Seville skyline was backlit by the sunset, the unmistakable Giralda tower and a dozen church spires piercing the sky. We arrived in Seville late afternoon, just in time to see the sun set over the city and take some photos of the amazing scene, across to the Murillo gardens which run alongside the Alcázar fortress, over the old quarters towards the cathedral, and the legendary River Guadalquivir glinting in the distance.

The evening was mild and the air filled with the perfume of jasmine flowers as we strolled through the gardens, following the path bedside the ancient walls into the maze of narrow streets that wind through the ‘Juderia’ Jewish quarters. I imagined it was just like this back in the Medieval Ages…Seville’s rich cultural heritage can be felt at every turn!

A few minutes’ walk away, Santa Maria Cathedral stands in Plaza del Triunfo at the heart of the historical city, a magnificent Catholic temple and possibly the most stunning in Spain.

Just around the corner, Avenida de la Constitución is a wide avenue flanked by elegant XVIII century buildings, a contrast to the medieval neighbourhoods, especially the ultra-modern trams which glide through the otherwise traffic-free city centre. The atmosphere was magical in December with Xmas lighting brightening the facades of the ornate buildings, the stores ablaze with seasonal decorations.

Wandering deeper within the historical quarters, quite by chance we emerged in Plaza del Salvador, a square famous for its emblematic church and a typical little tavern with an ancient wood columned portico – a popular place for a glass of beer or chilled dry sherry.

We eventually dined on ‘tapas’ in a small restaurant close to the cathedral – Seville is synonymous with Spanish-style appetizers, it’s almost a religion! A remarkable choice of eateries serves both traditional tapas and exquisitely presented gourmet fusion cuisine…the superb Manzanilla olives warrant a special mention.

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Discovering the sights
Waking up in bed next morning to the breath-taking view of the Seville skyline shining through our panoramic window was a treat! It was time to discover Seville by day…

Hotel Alcázar overlooks the Jardines de Murillo beside the ancient city walls, in the historic Santa Cruz district (the Brotherhood of Santa Cruz Church have taken part in the city’s passionate Easter processions since the Middle Ages). The gardens are filled with centuries old gigantic magnolias and other exotic trees brought over from the Americas.

Calle Agua is a narrow lane following the high walls of the Alcázar gardens into the Jewish quarters, where we discovered pretty plazas filled with laden orange trees at almost every turn…the beautiful Seville oranges that bitter sweet marmalade is made from.

We passed the entrance to the Royal Alcázar de Sevilla, a fortress palace, originally dating to Roman times and rebuilt by the Moors in 713 which we’d visited on a previous trip a few years ago – it’s  one of the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, along with the Cathedral and the General Archives of the Indies.

Housed in the Casa Lonja, a fascinating building where merchants traded in the 1500s, the Archives of the Indie are documents of immense historical importance relating to the Spanish Empire, the discovery and later administration of the ‘New World’. We came out at the cathedral square, where typical horse-driven carriages are available for a leisurely tour of the main sights – this is one of the typical things to do in Seville.

Santa Maria Cathedral is totally amazing, built 1401-1507 on the site of the original XII mosque; it is the biggest gothic cathedral in the world! We purchased entrance tickets and marvelled at the treasures inside. Christopher Columbus and his son are both buried here, and there are incredible works of art and holy artifacts on display. Catholic festivities are celebrated with fervour by the people of Seville, and some of the holy ‘images’ which are proudly carried on shoulders through the streets by devotees at Easter and other illustrious occasions can be seen. The inner courtyard, ‘Patio de los Naranjos’ is a rectangular garden with a fountain and orange trees so typical of Seville.

The Giralda tower is actually a former minaret with a wide ramp inside, designed so a person on horseback could ride up to call the people to prayers. The Christian bell tower was added to the original structure at a later date and there’s a short flight of steps to the top where you can see (and hear!) the almighty bells. At almost 100 metres above street level, the 360 degree views of the city are simply spectacular.

The same entrance fee includes a visit to the Divino Salvador church, a few streets away from the cathedral. Originally a Roman temple later converted to a mosque and finally rebuilt in the 1600s, it is steeped in history. The pink baroque façade, intricately adorned alters and precious works of art are well worth seeing.

We headed for the River Guadalquivir passing the famed bullring (the Royal Maestranza), and crossed over to the east bank at Triana bridge, another of Seville’s landmarks. Triana is a traditional suburb where some of the best Flamenco singers, bailaor dancers and Spanish guitar players were born.

A stroll beside the wide river and we crossed back to the Torre de Oro; originally built by the Moors as a defence tower (1220), the lookout post has commandeering views down the Guadalquivir and for miles around. According to popular legend, the ‘Gold Tower’ is so named because galleons brought gold and other wealth back to from seafaring expeditions to the Americas. Seville was closely linked with discovering the ‘New World’ and the port became a major trade centre in the XV century. Inside the dodecagonal tower an interesting collection of canyons, compasses, old sea charts and other naval paraphernalia are on display.

The whole of the city centre is packed with remarkable historical buildings (palaces, churches, convents, etc.); a XVIII century tobacco factory, now the seat of the university, is a wonderful example.

Plaza de España was possibly the most extraordinary place we saw… it is a monumental, semi-circular building with two towers, arcaded porticos, traditional Andalusian tiling, and a huge central courtyard with a lake criss-crossed by quaint bridges.

Around the perimeter, tiled recesses depict scenes of Spain’s 48 provinces – coats of arms, mosaics of maps and historical events. The complex was designed specifically for the 1929 Ibero American Exhibition and is mainly used as government offices nowadays.

Plaza de España is located in the extensive Maria Luisa Park which unfortunately we didn’t have time to explore. We had come full circle and were almost back at Hotel Alcázar, and before leaving we stopped for lunch at a restaurant  – this district is within easy walking distance to the major tourist attractions, but prices are generally lower than the cathedral zone. The Andalusian climate is perfect for cultivating olive trees which reflects on the quality of a local cuisine enhanced with the fruity aroma of pure olive oil.

It’s surprising how much you can see of Seville in forty-eight hours! I’m hoping to come back sometime soon, in springtime when the air is heavy with the perfume of orange blossom, to experience the passion of the Easter processions and to enjoy the sensational Seville April Fair, the most popular festival in Spain…but that’s another story!

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Hotel Alcázar
Hotel Alcázar is conveniently located, opposite the Jardines de Murillo, the walled gardens beside the old quarters of Seville – all the city sights are at hand!

This smart hotel is easy to find if you’re driving (you can pull-up right outside), the staff professional and helpful (ask about the complimentary ‘Feel the City’ tour) and most importantly prices are very reasonable – we stayed in a guestroom with fabulous views (budget options available if this is not a priority).

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Recently under new management, Hotel Alcázar has been tastefully restyled; notable details such as the Travertine marble façade or the collection of relevant works-of-art (stone coat of arms, tapestries, sculptures, paintings…some dating to the XV century) give the place an air of distinction.

Decor is elegant, rooms are peacefully soundproofed, beds are extremely comfortable, and ensuite bathrooms are equipped with good hairdryers and vanity mirrors as well as the usual conveniences.

Meanwhile, the directors have surprises planned for the near future…a ‘sky bar’ on the rooftop terrace where guests can relax for breakfast, cool-off in the splash pool on a summer’s day or sit under the stars with a glass of cava in the evenings, and marvel at the sun setting over the skyline of Seville!

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Hotel Alcázar, Avenida Menéndez Pelayo 10, 41004, Sevilla.
www.hotelalcazar.com

Getting there:
By road: We drove down via Granada on the A92, and returned on the A4 for Cordoba/Madrid. Take the E5 for Cadiz; the A-49 for Huelva or the Algarve in Portugal.
By plane: Seville airport (10km); Jerez airport (95km), ideal if you’re combining a visit to Seville with a few days on the coast in summer.
By rail: AVE high-speed train to Seville from major Spanish cities.

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Plaza de España, Sevilla, Spain
https://youtu.be/r6EdD8m52oQ

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